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Clothing and Adornments
Late one October evening in 1870, Anna Vilhjálmsdóttir, the
daughter of a wealthy land-owner in southern Iceland, was seen
leaving her father's farmstead with a bundle under her arm. She
was on her way to meet her suitor, the Reverend Oddur Gíslason, who
waited for her with horses some distance away. Anna took this bold
step to avoid being forced into a marriage arranged by her parents
to someone they considered of more acceptable status. Anna and
Oddur were married with her parents' belated blessing, had
fifteen children, and in 1894 emigrated to Western Canada. Local
folklore had it that Anna's bundle contained this festive
costume, known as a skautbúningur, traditionally used only for
special occasions, such as weddings. However, Anna did not in fact
wear this costume to her wedding, for it was not complete at the
time of her elopement. It took two seamstresses and a silversmith
more than two years to finish it and another like it for her
sister. The skautbúningur is always festooned with objects of gold
and silver filigree, such as the belt and tiara, and also brooches,
pins and chains. In a society where almost all wealth was tied up
in land, the public adornment of wives and daughters was one of the
few ways a man could display his surplus wealth. (Icelandic)
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In traditional China every individual, however rich or poor, was
entitled to be honoured on three occasions: birth, death and
marriage. Among Chinese-Canadians marriage is similarly honoured,
but the circumstances and ceremonies surrounding it now blend
Chinese tradition with Western symbolism. Matchmakers and
fortune-tellers are no longer consulted; Canadian born Chinese
choose their spouses themselves, though some continue to avoid
marrying persons of the same surname. Weddings are now usually
conducted in a church, followed by a reception at home and a
banquet in a restaurant. Newlyweds maintain the tradition of
offering tea to parents and relatives, but the old custom of
kowtowing to elders and worshipping heaven and earth and the
ancestors has waned. The traditional wedding costume, which is
still favoured by many modern Chinese brides, is charged with
symbolism. This bride's satin jacket and skirt is richly
embroidered with sequins, rhinestones and glass beads, forming
dragon and phoenix motifs. The phoenix, symbolizing beauty, was the
favourite dress motif of Chinese empresses. On a bridal gown, the
phoenix signifies that the bride is empress on her wedding day.
The groom's coat is woven with the character shou, meaning
longevity. Both these contemporary garments were made in Taiwan.
Some traditional wedding gifts are chop-sticks, dates and lotus
seeds, all symbolizing the wish that the couple have many children.
[Treasures] (Chinese)
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The country of Tibet is divided into three main regions, Kham in
the East, Amdo in the North East and Utsang in the centre. In each
region the costume differ slightly, though the basic garments and
styles remain the same.
There are two main types of costumes: Those worn for special
ceremonies and festivals and those for everyday use. Silk and fine
cotton are used for special clothes, with the silk being imported
from China and cotton from India. The basic garment is a
long-sleeved coat called chubba or chupa, which is folded across
the body and held in place by a belt. Both men and women wear this
garment and both have the draping from left to right, as is
customary in Asia. The women wear the chubba to the ankle, two
blouses (one long sleeved and one short sleeved) underneath. The
two blouses have high necks, with one often rolled over the other
to form a collar. Decorated boots in felt and leather are worn and
are shown just below the skirt. Women from the Utsang region, where
this costume is from, wear a chubba without sleeves which allows
the long sleeves of the blouse to be shown. (Tibetan)
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The dress is part of a costume worn by the historical mannequin
representing Princess Olha on display at the Ukrainian cultural
exhibit at Casa Loma in Toronto. The dress is inspired by Byzantine
court fashions and imitates a 10th Century dalmatica-type
garment.
The silk and brocade, covered with a design of the same colour
as the background were characteristic for the expensive imported
fabrics known in Rus' under the general term of pavolok. The
costume was produced for the Ukrainian exhibition in the late 1960s
Ukrainian Canadian Women's League. (Ukrainian)
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